Sole-sewing machine



(-N o Model.) 4 Sheets-$11eet 1."

H. I. ILLINGWOR'TH.

SOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 591,475. PatentedOot. 12,1897.

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(No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 2.

' H. I. ILLINGWORTH.

SOLE SEWING MAGHINE.

Patented Oct. 12, 189.7

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(No Model.) 7 1 4 Sheets-Sheet 4.

H. I. ILLINGWORTH.

SOLE SEWING MAGHINE.

Patented Oct. 12,1897.

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"UNITED ST T- s PATENT FICE.

HARRY 1-. iii Linewonrn, or LYNN, MASSAoHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO "CHARLES E. RILEY, OF NEWTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

SOLE-SEWING MACHINE.

S PEGIFICATI ONforming part of Letters Patent No. 591,475, dated October 12, 1897.

7 Application filed July 1, 1896- $erial No. 597,676. (No' model.)

and figures on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention relates particularly to machines for sewing channeled shoes, and has for its object the production of simple and efficient mechanism whereby the work is not only firmly supported against the thrust of the curved needle, but the upper is pulled closely over the sole as the needle penetrates. A feed-point is employed to engage the work opposite the channel-guide, the'angle between them being such that i the work is pressed againstthe guide, the upper being at the same time pulled closely over the sole. The stitchforming mechanism iS mounted on a stationary part of the head, the curved hooked-needle, forming a part of such mechanism, entering the Work just behind or back of the channel-guide and feed-point, the latter remaining in the work until the needle has received its loop of thread and been withdrawn through the work. An oscillating looper is provided,

making substantially a complete revolution in each' direction, traveling entirely around the needle to present the loop of thread thereto. A back gage or work-support is mounted to move toward and from the work, and the looper is" so connected therewith as to g be movedlongitudinally and sim ultaneously, so

., that the "relative position of the looper and the plane'of the needle-guide, so that it moves in a flat arc, and it is so arranged and actuated that it is'moved in the same direction as and with the feed-point when the latter is feeding the work, thus relieving the parts from the strain to which they would otherwise be subjected in starting the shoe after setting each stitch. After the feed of the Workgthe channel-guide is quickly and positively returned to normal position, the feedpoint remaining in the ,work, after which the feed-point leaves the work and is moved'back in elevated position ready to again enter the work. The back gage is then moved up to support the work and the feed-point is moved into engagement with the latter, the operation thereafter being carried out as described.

Figure 1 is a front elevation of a shoe-sewing machine embodying my invention with theneedle withdrawing from the Work to set the stitch. Fig. 2 is a rear elevation and partly in section of the machine shown in Fig. '1. Fig. 3 is a Side elevation of the machine, looking to the right, Fig. 1. Fig. 4 represents in elevation the opposite side of the machine to the left of line a: os,'Fig.-1, the fly-wheel being omitted and with a Shoe partially shown I in section in position to be sewed, the back gage having'been nearly withdrawn preparatory to feeding. Fig. 5 is an enlarged detail .View of the needle, its carrier, and the needleguide. Fig. 6 is a detached view of the neejdle-guide. Fig. 7 is a detail showing the back gage, feed-point, channel-guide, and needle in relative position as the needleis entering the work. Fig. 8 is a sectional detail, enlarged, of the looper to be described; and Fig. 9 is a plan view of the connection between the looper-sector and its actuating-cam.

The main frame A, of suitable shape to support the operative parts of the machine, is provided with a bearing A and a second bearing A on arr-upturned arm'A of the frame, the main driving or cam shaft B rotating in said bearings andibeing thus Supported near its ends. A suitable driving or band wheel B is secured to the'outer endof the shaft beyond the bearing A, and a cam hub or disk 0 is secured to the shaft inside of the bear ing A The main frame is upwardly extended in front to form an overhanging head A which supports the stitch-forming mechanism, including acurved hooked needle n, Figs. 3 to 7 inclusive, means to support and actu ate it, a looper, and looper-actuating means.

As best shown in Fig. 1, the head A, at its upper end, is recessed to receive a needle-segment a, Figs. 3 and 5, cut away to leave a curved shoulder a, while a cover-plate a secured to the head by screws 3, fits over the shoulder a and the extended fiange a of the segment, the segment rocking on a stud 12, extended through the head A and rigidly held by a suitable nut b the end adjacent the needle-segment having a slot or nick b therein, as shown best in Fig. 5, for a purpose to be described.

A needle-guide 0 (shown separately in Fig. 6) has a hole 0 for the needle, and a laterallyprojeeting hub 0 to receive the-end of the stud Z), projecting beyond the needle-segment a, said hub being cut away or slotted at its outer end at c to receive a pin or lug b in the stud b, which limits the throw of the needle-guide. By loosening the nut b the stud b can be rotated in one or the other direction to adjust the position of the stop IF, and thereby control the guide 0, which is retracted or raised by engagement of its end 0 with a lug a carried by the needle-segment a and adjustable thereon in a curved slot a concentric with its center. A strong spring S secured at one end to the needle-guide c, is wound around the hub 0 thereof, and its other end is caught over or attached to the lug a (seeFig. 5) in such manner that normally the spring retains the end 0 of the needle-guide in engagement with the lug a.

By the construction described the needleguide moves forward with the needle until stopped by engagement of the stop 19 with the upper edge of the slot 0 the spring S being compressed during the remainder of the forward stroke of the needle.

By adjusting the lug a the guide is properly timed to the movement of the needle n, secured to the needle-segment a in any usual manner. A rocker-arm a is pivoted at a on the lower part of the head, and it is longitudinally slotted at a (see Fig. 1) to receive adjustably therein a bolt having ears a", and held in adjusted position by a check-nut a, one end of a connecting-rod a being pivoted to the ears at (1 The other end of the rod is forked at a (see dotted lines, Fig. 3, and full lines, Fig. 2) to embrace the shaft B, a roll or other stud 0. on said rod entering a camgroove 0 in the inner face of the disk 0, as in dotted lines, Fig. 3. An adjustable link a a", connected by a right-and-left screw a, is jointed at one end to the rocker-arm 0t and at its other end to the needle-segment at a, adjustment of the link altering the terminals of the needle-path relative to the work-support, while adjustment of the connecting-rod a with said rocker-arm varies its throw to vary the needle stroke. The needle-guide is moved toward or against the work as the needle enters the latter, so that the needle is steadied and supported near its point.

The work-support or back gage is shown as an arm (I, bent laterally at (1 across the plane of the needle-path (see Fig. 1) and slotted vertically at d to receive a set-screw (Z by which the work-support is adj ustably secured to a bar 01 adapted to slide in a recess in the head A, so that the work-support is movable toward and from the work at the proper time. At its rear end the slide-bar projects beyond the head and an upturned arm d is rigidly secured thereto, as by screws 6, the bifurcated end d of the arm embracing an annularlygrooved collar at, fast on the hollow looperspindle Z. This looper-spindle is rotatable and longitudinally movable in bearings Z 011 a plate Z, secured to theside of the head, so located that the looper-spindle is inclined from the back toward the front of the machine, the spindle being cut away at P, Figs. 3 and 8, in order to facilitate the insertion of the thread into the looper L (shown as tubular in Fig. 8) and ofiset from the center of the spindle.

In this invention the looper L travels entirely around the hooked end of the needle to lay the loop of thread into the hook thereof, and it is returned to starting position thereafter, so that a complete rotation of the looperspindle is made first in one and then in the other direction. To effect this oscillation,

the spindle Z is provided with a long pinion Z in mesh with a toothed sector 1*, pivoted at the rear side of the head at Z (See dotted lines, Fig. 2.) A link Z is pivoted at one end to the sector Z and at its'other end to a stud on a slide-pin Z adapted to slide in a horizontal bearing 1, forming part of a bracket Z mounted on the outer end of the bearing A said slide-pin Z carrying a depending roller or other stud Z which enters the camgroove 0 in the periphery of the disk 0. As the disk 0 is rotated the sector-arm Z is rocked on its fulcrum Z back and forth to give the desired oscillating motion to the looper L, the teeth of the pinion Z being of such length that it will remain in mesh with the sector-teeth when the looper-spindle is moved longitudinally. Inasmuch as such longitudinal movement of the looper is effected by the movement of the slide-bar d carrying the work-support d, the latter and the looper will always be maintained in the same relative position. It will be understood that when the looper has carried the thread around the hooked end of the needle n the latter will be withdrawn from the work and thereafter the sector-arm 1* will be returned to normal position, moving the looper in reverse direction ready to lay the new loop about the needle for the next stitch. A lever m is f ulcrumed at m in a suitable bearing A of the main frame, said lever having a roller m on its lower end (see dotted lines, Fig. 4) to enter the groove h in the side of a camdisk H fast on the main shaft B, the lever remaining stationary for the greater part of the rotation of the shaft owing to the shape of groove h, after which it will be quickly rocked to move the work-support (l.

Through a boss m on the upper end of the lever m a shaft m is extended, having at its inner enlarged circular end m a wrist-pin m to enter a transverse slot 'm in the slide-bar d (see dotted lines, Fig. 4,) a spring S sur- I rounding the shaft m between the boss m and a collar m adj ustably held on the shaft by a set-screw 7, the ends of the spring entering holes in the collar and boss, respectively, to normally rotate shaft m and turn the pin m toward the front of the machine.

When lever m is rocked to move its upper end toward the needle, the slide-bar d and work-support d will be moved forward until the work-support bears against the work, as

- in Fig. 7, the spring S permitting rotation of shaft m during. completion of the stroke of lever m, the stoppage of the work-rest depending upon the thickness of the work.

To positively lock the work-rest in proper position, determined by the thickness of the work, during a part of the rotation of the main shaft, a friction band or strap m is secured at one end to a collar m, held adjusted on the boss m by a set-screw m the other end of the strap being preferably provided with a friction-roll m adapted to bear on the irregular periphery of the cam-disk H.

In Fig. 4 the work-support is nearly withdrawn, the cam-disk H moving in the direction of arrow 65, and as soon .as the point 69" the cam the lever m is swung to'the right,

Fig. 4, drawing the work-rest 01 back, so that the work can be fed forward, as will be described. When the work-rest has been moved forward by the swing of lever m in the optimes in the direction of the feed in unison with the movement of the feed-point to be described. The channel-guide g is shown best in Fig. 1 as a bent bar, having its upturned shank g vertically adjustable in a block 9 bymeans'of a set-screw 8, the channel-guide being inclined from its upper end inwardly and downwardly toward the point at which the needle penetrates the work and with its lower end slightly in front of the plane of the needle-path, viewing Fig. 4. The block 9 is adjustably held by a set-screw 9 on the end of a curved lever-arm G, passing through a slot g therein, said lever being fulcrumed' at G on a vertical pivot on the head A of the machinein substantially the 'plane of the needle-path.

Referring to Figs. 2 and 4, the rear end of the lever-arm G is downturned at G2 back of the shaft B, and has alaterally-extended foot 9 preferably roughened or grooved on its under-side to engage the corresponding upper side of a roll-carrier g providediwith aroller g bearing against the side of a cam-disk G The foot 9 is slottedto receive a setscrew 10, whichenters the roll-carrier g holding the two together and providing means for adjusting the roll 9* to change the throw of the channel-guide lever G, the disk G having formed therein a depression G with steep sides, so that the movement of the channel-guide laterally will be rapid. A spring S, secured to the lever-arm G and to some fixed part of the frame, as the arm A, maintains the roll g in engagement with the cam and moves the channel-guide forward at the proper time with the feedl I The adjustment of the roll 9 regulates the channel-guide toward and from the needle, the set-screw 8 its vertical adjustment, and the slot g and screw 9 adjusts it relatively to the work-support d.

The path of movement of the channel-guide is in a very flat arc, and after it has been moved forward with the feed-point the channel-guide is quickly and positively moved back to normal position, the feed-point remaining stationary.

A two-armed lever F F is provided with a hub F Fig. 1, through which is extended a horizontal stud F held in supports 12 1 3 on the front of the head, so that the lever may be moved longitudinally along and also rocked upon said stud, the arm F terminating in a roughened or serrated slotted block F to which is adjustably secured by a set-bolt 14 a similarly-roughened roll-carrier F The carrier is provided 'with a roll or other stud F which enters a cam-groove F in the side of a cam-disk F fast on the main shaft, the shape of the groove F being shown in dotted lines, Fig. 4. Rotation of the disk F causes the lever F F to be rocked onthe stud F to move the feed-point f, to be described, toward and away from the work.

The upturned arm F of the lever extends somewhat above the level of the work-support d, Figs. 1 and 4, and the offset portion F is horizontally slotted at 20 to receive a setscrew 21, extended into the feed-point holder F shown as a block split at its front end at '22 to-receive the shank f of the feed-point f.

adjusted rotatively about the shank, or longitudinally, and by means of the set-screw 21 the feed-point is adjusted toward or from the work. As its-name implies, the feed-point f feeds the work at the proper time, and it is moved forward into the work and withdrawn therefrom by the cam-groove F and intermediate devices.

Referring to Figs. at and 7, it will be seen that the feed-point enters the upper to in an inclined position and at such an angle with relation to the channel-guide 9 that the work is pressed against it, the upper being at the same time pulled tightly over the channeled sole .9.

As shown in Fig. 1, the channel-guide and feed-point are in the same vertical plane, a little to one side of the needle-path, the feedpoint acting as an auxiliary support for the work as the needle enters the same to receive its loop of thread, holding the upper firmly in position as the stitch is made.

The feed-point f remains in the work until the needle has received its loop and has been withdrawn, and after such withdrawal the work-support dis moved away from the work, the feed point then supporting the work. \Vhile the stitch is being set, or immediately thereafter, the feed-point and the channelguide are moved laterally in unison to feed the work, the channel-guide being moved by the means described, thus obviating the strain upon the feed-point which would ensue if the work had to be moved against the channel-guide.

It now remains to describe the mechanism for effecting the lateral or feeding movement of the feed-point and its return to position to enter the work.

The frame A has a bearing A for a rockshaft K, having at its inner end an arm K, provided with a roller or other stud K (see dotted lines Fig. 3) to enter the cam-groove G in the cam-disk G hereinbefore referred to, to thereby rock the shaft K at the proper times. At its front end said rock-shaft has a second upturned arm K longitudinally slotted at K to receive therein the head of a stud K a set-nut K clamping said arm between the fixed and movable collars 30 and 31 on the stud, which enters a slot 35 in the body of the double-armed lever F F below the fulcrum F Rocking of the shaft K thus acts, through the arm K and stud K, to move the said lever F F laterally on its fulcrumrod F to thereby cause the feed-point f, when in the work, to feed the latter, and when out of the work to return to position to again enter the work before the latter is penetrated by the needle. By adjusting the stud K in the slotted arm K the length of the feed stroke is regulated to a nicety, and by adjustment of the roll F the throw of the feedpoint toward or from the work is regulated. The arm A of the main frame supports any suitable thread-tension device T, from which the thread passes to the looper-spindle Z.

By the machine hereinbefore described I am enabled to unite the sole and upper while the latter is drawn tightly over the former, and the feed-point acts against the thrust of the needle, so that the labor of the operator is very much lightened and the resultant work much improved in finish and uniformity.

Having fully described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In a sewing machine, an oscillating needle segment, a curved needle carried thereby, a supporting-stud for said segment, a needle-guide mounted to rock on said stud, adjustable connections between the needlesegment and needle-guide, to retract the latter positively, a stop 011 the stud, to limit forward movement of the guide, and a depressing-spring for the latter, substantially as described.

2. In a sewing machine, an oscillating needle-segment, a needleguide, having a slotted hub, a common fulcrum-stud for said segment and guide, a stop on said stud, to enter the slotted hub and limit movement of the needle-guide toward the work, a depressing-spring for said guide, and connections between the needle segment and guide, whereby the latter is positively retracted against the depressing-spring, substantially as described.

3. In a sewing-machine, a curved hooked needle, means to oscillate it in a vertical plane, a channel-guide, means, to move the channel-guide laterally as the work is fed, a feed-point independent of the channel-guide, said point and needle entering the same face of the sole of the shoe and approaching the sole from nearly opposite directions, whereby to support the work against the needle thrust, and means to move said feed-point laterally to feed the work, substantially as described.

4. In a sewing-machine, a stationary head, stitch-forming devices mounted thereon, including a curved hooked needle, means to oscillate it, a channel-guide and an independent feed-point,to engage the sole of the shoe on the outer face thereof and adjacent the needlepath said channel-guide and feed-point diverging from their operative ends, and means to move said channel-guide and feed-point laterally in unison to feed the work, substantially as described.

5. In asewing-machine, a stationary head, stitch-forming devices carried thereby, and including a curved hooked needle, means to oscillate it, an adjustable channel guide, means to move it laterally as the work is fed, said guide engaging the sole of the shoe on the face entered by the needle, an adjustable feed-point to enter the work in a direction opposite to the thrust of the needle and on the same face of the sole, and means to move said feed-point laterally to feed the work, and also away from and toward the work, substantially as described.

6. In a sewing-machine, a stationary head, a work-rest mounted therein, means to move it toward the work yieldingly and thereafter to lock it, an oscillating needle-segment, and an oscillatory and longitudinally-movable looper mounted on the head, means to rotate said looper through a complete circle, first in one and then in the opposite direction, connections between the Work-support and looper, whereby the latter is moved longitudinally, a channel-guide and a feed-point, and means to move them laterally to feed the work, substantially as described.

7. In a sewing-machine, a stationary head, an arm mounted thereon to swing on a vertical pivot, a channel-guide, means to adjustably attach it to the arm, a cam, a roll adj ustably secured to the depending end of said arm, and to'beengaged by the cam, to move the channel-guide positively in one direction, and a spring to move said arm and the guide in the opposite direction, substantially as described.

8. In a sewing-machine, a hollow looperspindle, a tubular looper 011 the lower end of said'spindle and ofiset from its longitudinal axis, a pinion on said spindle, a sector-gear in mesh therewith, a slide-pin carrying a roll, a link between said pin and sector-gear, a fixed guide and support for the pin, and a 0on trolling-cam for said roll to rock the sectorgear, substantially as described.

9. In a sewing-machine, a stationary head, a downwardly-bent arm mounted upon a vertical pivot thereupon, a channel-guide holder adjustable on the front end of said arm, a chan nel-guide longitudinally movable in said holder, means to retain it in adjusted vertical position, and means to move the channel-guide intermittingly in the direction of the line of feed, substantially as described.

10. In a sewing-machine, a feed-point having a shank bent at an angle therewith, a holder for said shank, means to adjust the holder and feed-point as a whole and means to clamp the feed-point in the holder whereby the feed-point may be moved in the holder in the direction of the length of its shank, or upon the latter as a center, substantially as described.

HARRY I. ILLINGVVORTH.

Witnesses:

JOHN C. EDWARDS, AUGUSTA E; DEAN. 

